Arlington Attic Insulation From a Local Contractor

Hot upstairs rooms in July. An electric bill that keeps climbing. A draft along a hallway ceiling when every window is shut. Those usually trace back to the attic, and usually to insulation that has settled, thinned out or been disturbed since the house was built.

Dimensional Contracting is based at 6720 Ridge Estates Ct, here in Arlington. We install blown-in fiberglass and cellulose, and batts where they suit the space. We do not install spray foam or radiant barrier.

The attic evaluation is free. We measure what is up there, photograph it, and tell you whether it needs topping up or taking out. Call (817) 502-9282.

All of it. North and south Arlington, east and west, the southeast and southwest sides, and the middle of the city. Which part of town you are in does not change who turns up or what the free attic evaluation covers.

Pantego is its own town rather than a part of Arlington, so it has a page of its own.

We install and upgrade attic insulation in existing homes. The material is blown-in fiberglass or cellulose, and batts where the space suits them. It goes across the attic floor, from the eaves to the hatch, worked around wiring and ductwork.

How much you need depends on what is up there now and how deep it is. The attic insulation page explains how we measure it and what we recommend.

Old insulation comes out when it is wet, contaminated, or full of rodent droppings and nesting. We use truck-mounted vacuum equipment and long hoses so the material goes straight into bags outside rather than through your house.

While the attic floor is clear we can see the decking, and that is usually when a roof leak or a duct problem turns up. Insulation removal covers how the job runs and what happens to the old material.

Replacement is removal and installation as one job: the old material out, the attic checked over, the new blown-in material in, at the depth the house needs.

It is the right call when the existing insulation is contaminated or soaked rather than simply thin. The replacement page sets out how we decide.

If pests, a roof leak or someone working in the attic has damaged part of the insulation, we do not patch that one spot. We work on whole attics.

We check the condition of what is up there first, then recommend either adding more across the whole attic or taking it out and replacing it. Which one depends on what we find, not on a rule. The attic insulation page is where that choice is laid out.

Adding to what is already there is the cheaper route when the existing layer is dry, clean and simply too shallow. We check that first, then blow new material over the top across the whole attic.

Houses built before the current energy code are the usual candidates. Adding more insulation covers when topping up works and when it does not.

Air sealing closes the gaps that let conditioned air leak into the attic: around plumbing stacks, electrical penetrations, top plates, chases and the attic hatch. We use foam sealant and caulk.

It is worth doing before new insulation goes down, because insulation slows heat but does not stop air moving through a gap. Attic air sealing explains where the leaks usually are.

Blown-in is what we use most. The machine stays outside and feeds material through a hose, so it gets into the corners, around joists and over the awkward parts of an attic in a way batts cannot.

We level it to a measured depth rather than eyeballing it. Blown-in attic insulation covers the materials and the method.

Attic ventilation moves hot air out and lets cooler air in through the soffits. We check soffit vents, gable vents and baffles, look for intake that has been painted over or buried under insulation, and put the airflow back.

We install attic fans, electric and solar. On an electric fan, a motor-only swap is not a job we take. Our own roofing crew does the installing, so you do not need to hire a separate roofer for a fan. Attic ventilation and electric attic fan installation each have their own page.